Tuesday, September 06, 2005

The rivermouth that roared

One of the stops on the train ride to Edinburgh was the town of Berwick-Upon Tweed.

I was sort of interested in stopping there for an hour or two because of a bit of strange history that happened in the town.

To quote from wikipedia:

Since Berwick has had the distinction of having changed hands between the English and the Scots so many times in its history, it was traditionally regarded as a special, separate entity, and various proclamations promulgated before 1885 referred to "England, Scotland and the town of Berwick-upon-Tweed". One such was the declaration of war against Russia in 1853, which Queen Victoria signed as "Victoria, Queen of Great Britain, Ireland, Berwick-upon-Tweed and all British Dominions". But when the Treaty of Paris (1856) was signed to conclude the war, "Berwick-upon-Tweed" was missed out. Technically, one of Britain's smallest towns was officially at war with one of the world's mightiest powers for over a century! In 1966 a Soviet official waited upon the Mayor of Berwick, Councillor Robert Knox, and a peace treaty was formally signed. Mr Knox is reputed to have said, "Please tell the Russian people that they can sleep peacefully in their beds." To perpetuate the issue, some have noted that Knox was not the successor of Queen Victoria in competences of foreign relations, and therefore exceeded his powers as mayor in concluding a peace treaty.

So who wouldn't want to visit that! Is there a plaque? A statue?

As it came time to arrive I became aware of three things, in roughly this order:

1) The train I was on was not going to stop in Berwick-upon-Tweed.

2) The town is quite lovely, at least from the vantage point of the train on the rail bridge situated a ways upstream and quite a bit above the town.

3) My camera was in my suitcase, so there is no picture.

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